New York is there, tangible, in this bright room with its dramatic high ceilings, extravagant bouquets, rows of banquettes and art deco woodwork. The dining room sets the tone, grand like one of Beethoven's symphonies. The plate is the music. Whilst Daniel Humm, Swiss chef with a traditional approach, perfectly masters the secrets of French cuisine, here he ventures off the beaten track, offering a sample menu, for which the guests choose the basic ingredients – for example, hamachi, radish, langoustine, foie gras and the chef and his team subsequently come up with a tailored menu allowing guests to sample unique creations. Mouth-watering!